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365 days of Happiness: Day 32

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Feb. 1st, 2014 | 08:51 pm
居場所: Prepping for sleep.
気持ち: triumphant
音楽: Rain falling

Hello February!!

Today, I ventured up to the North Shore and after checking on my favorite break's conditions, opted for a spot that Kelly Slater and I share the same feeling on.  Sunset Point.

It's not that I hate the break, it's just that it's one break that no matter what I continue to not do so well with.  Maybe it's the fact that it's the only break where I had my board snapped in half by the WAVE.  Maybe it's the fact that it's one of those breaks where it could be head high one minute and jump up to double overhead the next.  I just know that it's one break that I enjoy surfing, but when I do, I surf with complete (and sometimes too much) caution.  That being said, I actually did well today.  I was humbled about 3 times, but caught an equal amount of waves per humbleness.  I even caught a a decent 12 foot wave on my short board!  (NOTE:  I had the shortest board in the line up, muhahahah).

Later on today, I went to another break (with a similar heavy wave as Sunset) and caught a barrel!  THIS is why I enjoy surfing.  The thrill, the rush, the fact that I continue to amaze even myself.  haha.

Sleep well all. 

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