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Surf Update

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Dec. 19th, 2010 | 06:36 pm

Well, as you may or may not know, I began surfing about 2 months ago. I have been very determined to "grasp a strong handle" on this sport and have been trying to put in at least 1-2 hours a day in the water. I will admit that, yes, I worry about sharks. They are the very first thing that come to mind the minute I hit that water and I do a silent prayer that nothing bites me. I really do love surfing. So, I am not going the let the fact that there are sharks in the water stop me from my new found hobby and sport.

So... today was a major turn in my surfing experience. I took up enough courage to take on a four foot wave! Now, four feet may not be big, but in surfing terms, it is rather large. But I muster the courage to catch, stand on my board and accelerate down the face of the wave at a speed I could not even imagine. While going down it, I was shocked. But the simple fact that I stood on my board and did not just belly surf it was a major highlight for me. There was one point in my experience today where I literally flew off the wave and landed on the surface of the water below me. I slapped the surface and swerve right in an attempt to ride back up, but I still need to work on cutting back up the wave. That being said, I had survived just going down the wave.

I love every minute of it and will continue to keep you all well informed as time goes one. Take care.
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Comments {4}

Diego's Lj

From: entropyx
Date: Dec. 20th, 2010 05:16 am (UTC)
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have fun and be safe ^^

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hisensei808

From: hisensei808
Date: Dec. 20th, 2010 10:54 am (UTC)
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Thanks, I will.

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★  Ashlee ★

From: umbreons_shadow
Date: Dec. 20th, 2010 06:18 am (UTC)
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Nice, enjoy it, stay safe. <3

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hisensei808

From: hisensei808
Date: Dec. 20th, 2010 10:54 am (UTC)
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I will, thanks.

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